Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.
The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners totally astonished.
“I am completely surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.
The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.
However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.
It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.
It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.
Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.
A seasoned travel writer with a passion for British heritage and luxury adventures, sharing curated insights from years of exploration.